Easy Pillowcases with a French Seam

Pillowcases make great gifts for any and all occasions, even as gifts for yourself!

Whether you’re just beginning on your sewing journey, or you’ve been sewing a long time, making your own pillowcases is so much fun and so easy! You can whip one up in less than 20 minutes!

You can find fabric selections for Valentine’s Day, Easter, Fourth of July, Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas or a birthday.

No matter what the occasion, I want to teach you how to make easy pillowcases with a French seam. (If you click on that link to the French seams post, it will also teach you how to alter a garment that has French seams in it, so don’t miss that post!)

Don’t be intimidated by making your pillowcase with a French seam, even if this is your first project, because it is a super easy process! I love adding French seams whenever possible because it gives the item a professional look and it keep the seam from fraying wash after wash.

Today, I wanted to share with you a pair of pillowcases that I made recently for two special little girls. I love to use 100% cotton from quilt stores. The quality is much higher than fabric from the big box fabric stores and that means they will last alot longer through many washes!

What you want to do is to find the fabric that you want to use for the main section of the pillowcase. With this process, I like to use three coordinating fabrics, so it’s easy to do if you find a main fabric that has lots of color and pattern. That makes choosing the coordinating fabrics much easier.

In this case, these 2 little girls live on a homestead surrounded by trees, so I thought this tree fabric was perfect!

4232, tree fabric for pillowcases with a french seam

Next, find the 2 other fabrics that coordinate with the first fabric. In this case, I found 2 pink fabrics where one fabric has a tiny pattern on it and the other is sort of a contrasting fabric with a larger print:

4236, coordinating fabrics for pillowcase with french seams

For a standard size pillowcase, you will need to buy:

3/4 yard for the main fabric (I like to cut the length at 28″ for the main piece if possible)

1/4 yard for the cuff fabric (the darker pink fabric with the dots in my case)

2″ for the trim fabric (the light pink paisley in my case)

For a Queen size pillowcase, you’ll need 1 yard of fabric cut to 30″ length. For a King size, buy 1 yard of fabric and cut it to 36″ length. (The cuff and trim pieces stay the same measurements as the standard pillowcase.)

Please read through the instructions all the way before beginning to sew. You’ll see that the instructions are detailed especially for beginners, but easy to follow.

I like to wash, dry and press the fabrics before I begin cutting. That way, if the fabrics shrink, they shrink before you make the pillowcase, not afterwards, which would leave it puckering.

Once, the fabric is ready, I trim off the uneven, frayed edges with my rotary cutter and mat, or you can certainly use scissors.

4242, trimming off edges of frayed fabric, pillowcase with french seam

Next, you will trim your main fabric to a length of 28″, if possible. If you only have 27″, that is fine. Your width is the width of the fabric which is about 44″ wide. You’ll leave the width alone.

4244, trim fabric to 28", pillowcase with french seams

Next, I cut the trim piece 2″ x the width of the fabric and set it aside.

4245, trimming the trim fabric to 2", pillowcase with french seams

Next, cut the cuff piece 9″ x width of fabric and set it aside.

4246, trim the cuff piece to 9", pillowcase with french seams

Since I was making two pillowcases at one time, this is what my cut pieces look like:

4247, all the cut fabrics in a pile, pillowcase with french seams

Next, take your 9″ cuff piece and your 2″ trim piece and press both of them in half along the length of the fabric, WRONG sides together so that the best side of the fabric is showing on the outside:

4249, press the cuff and trim pieces in half, wrong sides together, pillowcase with french seams

Now, you’re going to layer the three fabrics on a table. Begin by unfolding the 9″ cuff piece and lay it with the right side facing up as you see in the photo below. You don’t see the long edge, but its the long edge you are going to be working with:

4255, unfold the cuff fabric and place it right side up on the work surface.

Next, lay the main fabric right side up on top of the cuff piece. If you have a one way fabric like mine, just be sure it’s lying in the correct direction on the cuff piece.

Then, lay the folded trim piece (keep it folded!) on top of that. You’ll notice that the widths of the fabric are probably different, and don’t line up exactly, causing uneven edges and that’s ok. We will take care of that discrepancy in a later step.

4256, place all three layers right side up, pillowcase with french seams

Next, make sure all the edges are lined up on the trim edge (the vertical edge in the photo below)

all three fabrics lined up and matched, pillowcase with french seams

With all three layers matched up, and in front of you like the photo below, begin rolling up the bottom edge of the main fabric. Pin the edge in a few spots to hold it together.

4254 Pin the edges together to hold in place, pillowcase with french seams

With the layers pinned and facing you as in the photo below, begin rolling up the main fabric as shown:

4253, roll up main fabric, pillowcase with french seams

Keep rolling up the main fabric until you can see the cuff fabric as shown below:

4259, keeping rolling up main fabric, pillowcase with french seams

Now, bring the cuff fabric up and over the roll to meet the edges of the other fabric edges:

4260, pull the cuff fabric over the roll and pin, pillowcase with french seams

Remove your previous pins and now pin through all layers:

4262, pin through all layers, pillowcase with french seams

I like to put alot of pins in to hold it together securely.

4265, pin close together, pillowcase with french seams

One of the sewing tips I shared in a recent interview with Lisa from Farmhouse on Boone on her Simple Farmhouse Life podcast is that when you start to sew a seam, always be sure to hold the 2 threads in your left hand while you stitch the first few stitches, then let go of the thread and continue sewing.

This keeps the thread from getting sucked down into the machine and jamming the bobbin. Most people stop sewing because they don’t know what causes this to happen. So just get in the habit of it and you’ll have great success!

4268, hold threads while you stitch the first two stitches, pillowcase with french seams

I like to line up the edge of the pillowcase fabrics with the edge of the presser foot as I sew, as seen below.

4270, line up the edge of the pillowcase with the presser foot, pillowcase with French seams

Your seam should have a 1/4″ seam allowance:

4273, stitch the long edge of the fabric roll, pillowcase with french seams

Next, you can zig zag the edge of the fabric or use a serger, if you have one. This keeps the fabric from fraying as the pillowcase is worn and washed.

I like to line up the edge of the fabric to the inner side of the right “foot” of the presser foot, where the pencil is pointing. This helps your zig zag stitch to be even as you sew.

4278, line up your fabric edge to zig zag, pillowcase with french seams

This is what your zig zagged edge should look like:

4275, zig zag the edge of the pillowcase with french seams

On my machine, I use a wide zig zag stitch. Your machine should have a zig zag stitch. Refer to your owner’s manual, if you’re not sure how to access it.

Now you’ll reach inside the tube and turn the pillowcase right side out:

4278, now turn the pillowcase right side out

This is what your pillowcase will look like. There will be raw edges of fabric exposed on the sides of the pillowcase, but the 3 fabrics should look like this at the top of the pillowcase:

4279, the pillowcase turned right side out

Smooth out all the layers and press flat.

4286, press the layers, pillowcase with french seams

Press the back smooth as well:

4284, press the back smooth as well

Line up the edges of the sides of the pillowcase and trim off the uneven edges:

4287, line up the edges of the pillowcase and trim off the excess

This is what your pillowcase should look like when it’s trimmed evenly:

4289, your pillowcase after the edges are trimmed evenly

Next, you are going to fold the pillowcase WRONG sides together and match the top edges together and stick a pin in the seam like this:

4298, matching seams wrong sides together on pillowcase

Pin the edges together all the way down the side and bottom edge of the pillowcase:

4299, pin all the way down the pillowcase with french seams

Beginning at the top of the pillowcase, start sewing along the side edge, using the right edge of the presser foot lined up with the raw edges of the side of the pillowcase as your guide. You’ll be sewing a 1/4″ seam.

4302, start sewing the edge of the pillowcase using a 1/4" seam

Trim the corner of the pillowcase without cutting the stitched seamline:

4303, trim the corner of the pillowcase

Trim the edge to 1/8″. I don’t measure this, I just cut the seam allowance in half. I use scissors here so I don’t make a mistake!

4304. Trim the edge to 1/8". I don't measure this, I just cut the seam allowance in half. I use scissors so I don't make a mistake

Turn the pillowcase inside out and finger press the edges so they stay down:

4309, turn the pillowcase inside out and finger press the edges so they stay down

Next I stitch a 3/8″ seam. Remember to backstitch to hold the stitches in place and also hold those threads for the first few stitches. My machine has a 3/8″ guide. If yours doesn’t have one, put a piece of masking tape on the edge after you’ve measured and follow the tape to make a straight seam.

4312, next I stitch a 3/8" seam on the pillowcase edges.

When you get to the edge of the pillowcase, leave your needle down in the fabric:

4313, when you get to the edge of the pillowcase, leave your needle down in the fabric

Lift your presser foot up…

4314, lift your presser foot up, pillowcase with french seams

Turn the pillowcase 90 degrees like this…

4316, turn your fabric 90 degrees, pillowcase with french seams

Continue sewing the rest of the pillowcase bottom to the edge and backstitch to hold the stitches in place.

4318, continue sewing the rest of the pillowcase bottom

Check to see that your folds line up in the seam. If they don’t take that area apart with a seam ripper and match it up and stitch the area again. You don’t need to rip out the whole pillowcase, just the area where the fabrics don’t line up.

4319, check to see that your folds line up in the seam

Now all that’s left to do is to press your pillowcase flat

4321, press the pillowcase flat,pillowcase with french seams

and fold it up nicely, wrap it up and give as a gift!

4324 (2), pillowcases for girls, trees.

Update: June 10, 2023:

Inspired by the podcast with Simple Farmhouse Life and this blog post, ten year old, Kelcey, made four pillowcase for her niece and nephews and her mom sent me these photos! Didn’t she do a great job coordinating fabrics and sewing these?!! What a great accomplishment. I hope this encourages you to start sewing and may Kelcey enjoy many more sewing adventures her whole life long!!

1318, Kelcey's pillowcases, 3, pillowcases with a french seam

1300, pillowcases with a french seam, Kelcey pillowcase